All Hail The Beanie

Madeleine Thompson is a designer who likes to work with cashmere. Her creations are elegant and minimal, but still have a quirky style that fit themselves nicely into most wardrobes, which is why they can be found at Net-A-Porter.com. I caught up with the designer to talk about beanies, inspiration and aspirations.

Spring/Summer Collection 2012

Did you always want to start your own brand? Have you always worked in fashion?

After working in the buying department and as a designer at two of Hong Kong’s most prestigious department stores, I launched the Madeleine Thompson label. Everything we do today is based on the same principles that started the business: work with friends and always listen to your consumer – we love receiving feedback and always take it on board.

Your collections centre around cashmere, what is it about the fabric that you love?

I love working with cashmere as it is so luxurious and looks beautiful on anyone - I spend a lot of time sourcing the best quality cashmere to ensure that I make the best garments available.

How would you describe the Madeleine Thompson woman?

I think she’s quite difficult to put into any one category!   She’s the kind of woman who likes to look great even on off duty moments; from Sunday brunch to a walk along the beach and the Monday morning Starbucks coffee run.

Beanie hats make it into your collections each season and they play a role in shaping the brand. What role is that and are you a big fan of the beanie?

I am a huge fan of the beanie!  The beanie is where it all began; in 2006, after struggling to find a beanie in stores with the right mix of slouch and elegance, I designed a cashmere one for myself. My friends began asking me to make one for them and before long the word had spread and my beanie was seen on Sienna Miller & Agyness Deyn.

When designing a new collection, which is more important for you – style or comfort?

Whilst my focus is on elegance and simplicity, being comfortable is something that I put huge emphasis on as a designer. My consumer is always very impressed with the quality and comfort of my designs. I like to experiment with different textures and of utmost importance of course, is the feel of the fabric against the skin.

Autumn/Winter Collection 2012

You are based in Hong Kong, would you say you are influenced by the city?

My childhood was divided between Hong Kong and London which has resulted in an eclectic set of influences for my knitwear. Hong Kong is a very innovative and exciting place to be at the moment so I would definitely agree that it influences my lifestyle and designs.

Where would you like to see the brand grow?

My brand is now recognized on an International level which is fantastic and I’ve had the chance to collaborate with some fantastic and diverse brands including Liberty, Penguin Books and Cowshed. From the first iconic Maddy Beanie, the collection now comprises of dresses, accessories, jumpers, cardigans and shawls – it’d be fantastic to continue this success on a national and international level.

What do you find alluring?

I am inspired by my travels around the world, old novels and my friends and family so I suppose you could say that I find all of those things alluring!

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Lady Of The Dead

Tramp in Disguise is the name of Sini Moilanen’s brand. Specializing in knitwear, the Finnish born fashion designer established the label in 2010, where she went on to show the first collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

For the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection Sini has taken inspiration from the Mexican Day of the Dead to create more signature prints. She used the colourful spirit of the festival and translating it into contemporary silhouettes, that are created in luxurious silk jersey, silk chiffon, and a knitted silk and alpaca blend. The palette is a beautiful mix of bright vivid tones that give the collection its edge.

I absolutely love the shirt dress. Tramp in Disguise can be found on Not Just A Label, at 123 Bethnal Green as well as the Then&Now online boutique.

Which piece do you love?

Photos from Tramp in Disguise’s Autumn/Winter 2012 Lookbook 
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Testing, One Two Three

Over the past couple of weeks, I have been testing out quite a few beauty products. Some are brand spanking new, while others are old heroes. If you’re looking to try something new, whether it’s skincare, make-up or body products, have a little read and you might just be inspired.

Elizabeth Arden Intervene 3-in-1 Daily Cleanser Exfoliator Primer
Temple Spa Go Figure
Mavala Lipstick in Fatal Red*
By Terry Serum Terrybly Sunbooster*
L’Oreal Lumi Magique Pure Light Primer*
L’Oreal Nude Magique BB Cream*
Sophyto ph Optimizing Restorative Toner*

I’ve gotten into the habit of trying something new and so when something from my skincare routine runs out I always like to try something new, before I replenish the old. I ran out of scrub this week and went to buy some but got distracted by the amount of free gifts flying about in Debenhams. Elizabeth Arden were giving away 5 different sized products when you bought 2, so I finally remembered to buy the 8 Hour Cream. With that I got to choose 5 out of 8 or 9 different products to take home. One being Intervene 3-in-1 daily cleanser exfoliator and primer. It works like most scrubs in that you lather with water and rinse off. It has tini-tiny exfoliating beads that I find very effective. Usually I like a good hearty scrub, one with big beads, so I feel thoroughly clean after, but this multi-use product does just that. Leaving my skin prepped, primed and ready for the day. Elizabeth Arden Intervene 3-in-1 Cleanser Exfoliator Primer £24 for 200ml

Temple Spa is a brand I was introduced to through my old work. It’s a spa and wellbeing brand, one I think doesn’t get enough attention. They have a lot of different products and although some are overpriced and a little naff, they do have some amazing ones such as Go Figure. An anti-cellulite and slimming gel it contains the clever Iso-slim complex as well as menthol and green tea, which invigorates the skin. It is absorbed quickly and leaves skin, touchable colder while it tingles. The ingredients encourage fat-breakdown and limits the dips and bumps caused by cellulite. I rub it onto my upper-thighs and tummy after every shower and I can visably see a difference, especially on my legs. My cellulite has reduced slightly but mostly I have skinnier thighs. I have been using it for about two weeks, but started to see results after one. Temple Spa Go Figure £25

Mavala is well-known for their cute little nail polishes, but next month they are launching their way into the lip world here in the UK. June will see the release of lipsticks as well as glosses. I have been wearing the lipstick in Fatal Red ever since I got my hands on one. It’s a strong, pigmented bright red with a satin-finish, that glides on smoothly and has great staying power. As well as being moisturising. What I love most about it is that the colour on my lips is exactly the same colour as the concentrate, no misleading shades here. Mavala Lipsticks will be out in June

By Terry is a brand I had heard of, but never really tried until the Space NK blogger event a few weeks ago. Since then I have been trying the Serum Terrybly Sunbooster an Auto-Radiant Intensive Moisturiser that gives my dull looking, pale skin (thank you weeks of rain) a natural glow without DHA. Not only does it give my skin a glowing boost, but it has anti-aging properties too. The formula is enriched with biotechnological active ingredients that deeply irrigate the epidermis, correcting and smoothing the skin’s texture without coverage and colour, all of which leave my skin ultra supple. By Terry Serum Terrybly Sunbooster £65

L’Oreal’s latest range, The Magique Collection contains everything you need to get illuminating skin. I have been trying the Pure Light Primer and BB Cream. I personally don’t use them both on the same day, but others might. I love a good primer and this one really does do what it sets out to achieve. It’s silky texture glides on to the skin and is absorbed quite quickly, leaving a dewy look. When my skin is looking dull, this is the best thing for it and because the finish looks so good, I try not to wear foundation on top, although when you apply foundation (a powder base foundation, haven’t tried liquid) it still shines through. Being a BB virgin, I couldn’t wait to try the Nude Magique BB Cream. It comes out like a white liquid, but when you rub over your face you can feel little beads that start to work their magic and gives great coverage. I love the way it makes my skin look brighter and it completely covers any redness from blemishes. I do find this formula is quite thick so I try not to wear it daily, but on those pesky break-out days, this is genius. L’Oreal Lumi Magique Pure Light Primer £9.99

 L’Oreal Nude Magique BB Cream £9.99

Last week I also ran out of toner, so when I came across Sophyto’s ph Optimizing Restorative Toner I had to give it ago. As I have said before, I hate toners that dry out your skin, so ones that are made up of plant extracts and not chemical after chemical are more likely to nourish skin, instead of dry it. This toner contains shitake fruit and elderberry extract that help neutralize impurities. It leaves my skin feeling clean and very soft. Me likey. Sophyto ph Otimizing Restorative Toner £9.79

What new products have you tried recently?

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Much BETA

Beta Fashion set out to do things a little differently. They have created an international platform for designers to collaborate. Open to everyone and anyone with talent and a love for print, Beta then chooses the best to be put into production. With such an innovative vision for their brand and aesthetic, it’s great to see that their finished products are feminine, fun and oh so wearable.

This season they have not only released a line of print scarfs, stocked in Topshop, but they have also collaborated with e-retail giant ASOS. The collection sees each designer expressing their interpretation of ‘freedom’ through their eclectic silk prints. The designers in question are Samantha Edwards and Francesca Lahiri Langley. They final creations are very different as Samantha’s are more playful and Francesca’s are much more elegant.

I’m sure we are going to see many more great things from Beta!

Which scarf is your favourite? I love the Geometric style.

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To Dye For

We can only dream of warm weather and sandy beaches it seems, with this strange cold that won’t seem to get the hint. But one way to inject a bit of summertime into your wardrobe is with an old classic that’s making a comeback.

Tie-dye is making its way into the Spring/Summer collections on the high-street, off the catwalk and I’ve also seen and heard about T-shirt company start-ups on the rise, that are using this type of design as their starting point, so we may be seeing these psychedelic patterns for a little while longer.

1. Ann Demeulemeester Maxi Dress, £534, Farfetch 2. Blue Tie Dye Print Kafkan, £60, River Island 3. Evil Twin Epidemic Dip Dye Tunic, £35, SpoiledBrat 4. Tie Dye T-Shirt by Jody Shafton, £15, Asos Marketplace 5. Kimchi Blue Tie Dye Canvas Lace-up Platforms, £38, Urban Outfitters 6. Textile Elizabeth and James Tie Dye Print Low-Rise Skinny Jeans, £190, Net-A-Porter

Are you a fan?

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New York Movies

As I am off to New York in just over a week, it’s becoming quite hard to concentrate and think of anything else. NYC is my second home and I have a tendency to well up when the plane starts to land, and that famous skyline comes into view. So I thought I’d share with you my favourite all time movies set in that magical city. Not only are these films based in Manhattan, but the city is like a character, one so enigmatic and all-consuming, it almost makes you feel as though your there.

 New York, I Love You

Of course this movie makes the list, as the film itself encapsulates this blog post entirely. Made up of entwined short-films directed by the likes of Joshua Marston, Mira Nair and Natalie Portman, who also wrote and acted in some of its segments. With its all-star cast of actors such as Bradley Cooper, Rachel Bilson, Hayden Christensen and Shia Labeouf to name a few, there is a story that touches every heart, some much more gripping than others. The tale with Labeouf is definitely my favourite haunting moment of the whole thing. If I’m every feeling second-home sick, I put this on and it feels that void. Slightly.

Annie Hall

There’s no way you can talk about New York films and not discuss Woody Allen’s Annie Hall. It’s one of my favourite all time movies. So sharply neurotic, you can argue it’s Allen at his best. Plus with all the androgynistic fashion whats not to love. Dianne Keaton is such a babe. It was this film that made me want a Volkswagen Beetle as my first car, however I settled with a Mini instead.

New York Minute

The last of the Mary-Kate and Ashley movies, its definitely a classic. Two twins, that couldn’t be further from each other personality wise, running around New York trying to escape a truant officer as well as a chinese mob, what’s not to like. Oh and don’t forget the cameo from Simple Plan (oh that’s embarrassing). Mary-Kate’s grunge style here influenced most of my teen years. The baggy jeans, rock tee layering and red hat, oh yeah I wore that outfit many a time.

Breakfast At Tiffany’s

This film needs no explanation.

Nick & Norah’s Infinite Playlist

This is one of those silly teenage flicks, but it still holds a special spot in this list due to its story. When a group of kids finish high school one Friday night, they head into the city in search of their favourite band, they go all over, to every cool venue NYC has to offer. Caroline the drunk friend, who never sober’s up, is amazing; “I was kidnapped by a bunch of guys, saying they wanted to go balls deep. Yeah, not fun!” Adapted from the novel by Rachel Cohn and David Levithan, it stars Micheal Cera and Kat Dennings. If you haven’t seen it, you really should.

Factory Girl

I discovered this film in my first year of University, and I can’t say it didn’t influence my style for the next year. It was this film that made me fall in love with Sienna Miller, her portrayal of Edie is amazing. Edie Sedgewick was one of Andy Warhol’s muses and the first New York ‘It’ girl. She epitomised the phrase ‘poor little rich girl’ as she was troubled to say the least. I have a thing for a damsel in distress, and this movie is right up there with Girl, Interrupted and Gia.

Rent

The first time I went to visit my uncle in New York by myself I was 16, and he decided to take me to the theatre to see Rent. As soon as the lights went down and the band began to play, I knew the song, although I didn’t know how. To this day I still don’t know how I was singing along to songs I had never heard before. It wasn’t long after that I had tears in my eyes too. When the film came out, I was so excited. Made up of six of the original cast from the Broadway musical, this is a New York classic. I can’t even count how many times me and my brother have sung along to each note. The film is directed by Chris Columbus, and the play was written by Jonathan Larson, based on Giacomo Puccini’s opera La Boheme.  The sad truth is that Larson, never got to see his creation in practice, as he died just before opening night.

What are your favourite New York Movies?

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“It’s A Nail Concept”

Getting older means you have to work, your life becomes busy and sometimes that means you don’t get to see your girlfriends, or wolf pack, as much as you would like. So on Sunday we planned a very girly day of red wine, nibbles and nails.

Jody has recently taken up nail art, and has a pretty creative flair for it. We all fell in love with the Wah Nails Book of Nails and picked out different designs before Jody worked her magic.

Nina choose Leopard print nails to jazz up her outfit for a Gala this week. Firstly paint the entire nail one colour, then half the other before dotting and creating the spotty pattern.

Emily went for a decorative pattern. The nail was painted in one colour before using a Spangles Nail Foil to get the intricate design. The foil was simply cut down into a square shape a little bigger than the nail, pressed down and imprinted on, in a transfer tattoo sort of way. But don’t leave the foil on the nail too long, otherwise it takes off the polish when removed.

I just love my comic strip manicure. Although this is a bit fiddly, the practice behind it is rather simple. Paint each nail a different colour, then with a white nail pen, draw the speech bubbles in the corner of your choice on each nail, then dot the rest of the nail. Leave to dry, then outline the speech bubbles with a black nail pen and fill in with words of your choice. I went with the obvious ‘Wham’, ‘Pow’ and ‘Bang!’

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Agatha Hambi

Agatha Hambi loves the darker side of fashion, and I don’t just mean her choice of palette. Edgy lines and simplistic values run deep in her collections. Having had celebrities such as Mother Monster herself wear pieces from her graduate collection, it’s safe to say we can expect great things from this young designer.

What is it that you love about fashion? What inspired you to get into design?

Fashion is ever-changing. It is something that evolves. It is used to be a prominent change from decade to decade, now it is from season to season. What is in one week, could be out the next. That is why I love timeless and classic pieces. I was always fascinated by the different eras of fashion and the culture that comes with them. I have always loved creating and from a young age, I had a fascination with style and how things were carefully put together, to create something beautiful. I used to love dressing up and being or portraying a character, playing the role that the clothes and the jewellery created.

Is there a certain element or aesthetic that you hope to bring to every collection?

My garments are a modern take on a classic look. They have more than one wear to them and can be interpreted differently to every individual. I design my garments in a way that allows the wearer to interpret and accessorize them in their own way.

How would you describe your creative process?

I start by focusing on an era or a mood to inspire me. I then draw on my own personal experiences or feelings that I have had, in order to create a story as a starting point. As my collection develops and the story evolves, I put a lot of emphasis on not only the garments themselves but the overall aesthetic and how they will transfer into a more visual outcome, through photography and video.

Lady Gaga has previously worn pieces from your Graduate Collection, what did it feel like to get such recognition early on?

It is something I really never expected after my graduate collection and is a huge honour. The whole point of being a designer, is wanting people to wear your clothes. So when Lady Gaga wore my dresses, it gave me even more confidence and drive, to do what I love to do.

What other designers inspire you?

Right now I am in love with the designs of Inbor Spector. Her dresses have a dream-like feel to them. I love the techniques that she uses, as well as the colour palettes. She pays attention to detail and her dresses remind me of a fairytale.

Where would you like to see your collections stocked?

I would love to see my collections stocked in Dover Street Market, as everything there has been carefully selected. It has tasteful collections from more well-known designers to newer, up coming designers and it would be amazing to be part of that. I would also like to sell to high-end boutiques both in London and internationally.

What clothes are you usually found in?

I will always be found wearing my evil eye ring, it’s a part of me and I rarely take it off. I like to feel comfortable and don’t like to over complicate my look. I like combining different eras within my outfits, which changes depending on my mood.

What do you have in store for Spring/Summer 2013?

I am still designing with my trademark use of dark colour palettes. The starting point of this collection, was looking at the ‘hip hop’ culture. I looked at breathable, comfortable materials and how the garments could make the wearer feel free. Hip hop is about the freedom of expression, being who you want to be, seeing what you want to see. I want this idea to be apparent within my garments. 

What do you find alluring?

The mystery within a person. I get intrigued and captivated, wanting to know more. I am fascinated by the unknown; but that’s the fun of it, creating stories for the things that you would never know the answers to.

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Sensationail*

With the influx of gel manicures it was only time until someone would come up with an at-home gel kit. The Nailene Sensationail At Home Gel Manicure System became the number one selling home gel kit in the US in its first week. So having had gels in the salon and loving the benefits of a strong endurance manicure, I tested out the kit to see if it really works just as well at home.

The starter kit contains a Gel Cleanser, Gel Primer, Colour Gel Polish, Gel Base & Top Coat, as well as Manicure Stick, Double Sided Nail Buffer, Lint-Free Wipes and of course the pro 3060 LED Lamp. The kit is meant to last you for 10 complete manicures.

To start I  prepared my nails. I did this by removing any polish, then I filed and buffed the natural nail. Using the Lint-Free Wipe I cleaned the nails with the Gel Cleanser. Then I applied the Gel Primer and let it dry naturally. I applied a thin layer of the Gel Base & Top Coat, trying to avoid the skin and cuticle. You have to cap the natural nail, so I did this by running the polish brush along the tip. Then I cured the nails for 30 seconds as instructed. Here is where you need a steady hand. I applied a thin layer of Colour Gel Polish, trying hard not to touch the skin or cuticle, and caped the nails again with the brush. Make sure you touch up the nails and make them look as perfect as possible, because once you cure the colour, there is not going back. I cured the nails under the LED Lamp for only 60 seconds, before applying another layer and repeating the 60 seconds. I then applied a thin layer of Gel Base & Top Coat and cured for 30 seconds. You then remove the layer of moisture using the Gel Cleanser and Lint-Free Wipes and ta dah, you have high-gloss damage proof nails, however I didn’t quite.

The Gel Cleanser didn’t clean the nails and the manicure was left sticky. When I wiped down the thumb nails half the colour was removed and within an hour my manicure looked messy and bumps had form under the gel, causing it to flake. So I decided to try again and found that the reason the thumb nails were peeling was because the LED Lamp is smaller than those in salons, and the underside of your nail thumb doesn’t get any light. When I repeated the manicure I treated the thumb by itself, so it got as much light as the other nails. I also had to leave the nails in the lamb for double the amount of time it says in the instructions, as the light is not very strong. Instead of using the Gel Cleanser to wipe off the moisture, I used a regular nail varnish and that seemed to work better, as it didn’t leave the nails sticky to collect dust and lint, like before.

After the second go, my nails did look a lot better. Not perfect, but as good a first attempt.

The starter kit costs £85 and is available in Boots. This does seem rather steep, but it works out around £5.77 per manicure compared to the cost of £25 in a salon. The kit is designed to last you for years and so it is more of an investment, but I still think that the cost is rather high. My other thought is that you do need to have a steady hand, as this manicure lasts longer than most and might not always look as professional as the salon equivalent, so if you are not the best at giving yourself a manicure, this is not the product for you. Over all I think the idea is great, of course everyone would like a gel manicure at the fraction of the price, but it’s not. Well not at the beginning.

In May the Sensationail Invincible Gel Polish Colours (£15 each) will be launched so that you can use different colours at home.

What do you think about the Nailene Sensationail? Will you be investing?

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