Entries Tagged as 'Autumn/Winter 2012'

GUEST BLOG! Hats Off

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Needless to say I was quite daunted by the prospect of my first peek into the inner workings of London Fashion week.

“What if I’m mocked mercilessly by beautiful, pint-sized fashionistas? What if they throw their countless skinny lattes over me, whilst beating me with luxuriously soft leather Marc Jacobs bags, heavy with iPhones and Swarovski crystals, (or whatever it is in those huge bags) whilst cursing my choice of shoes?”

But thankfully this did not happen. Instead I was ushered into a beautiful room and presented underneath the wonderful painted ceilings were some rather lovely items of clothing. Lovingly made up mannequins dotted around the room show cased the latest designs by Á La Disposition. The collection was a beautiful mixture of Victoriana and origami, with my absolute favourite item chucked in for good measure. The Top Hat. The collection was solemn, with greys and faded lavender, but also had a sense of fun, enter the towering top hats. Each piece could easily be a costume for Helena Bonham Carter in a Tim Burton film.

To explain in properly you have to follow me for a minute in imagining such a scenario, and let’s see if I can paint a picture of the fashion feast my eyes beheld…

So… Charles Dickens bi-centenary fell upon us and to celebrate the occasion Mr. Dickens chose to arise from his leafy grave. A bit bemused by the world around him he saw a sight he felt he recognised. The title Alice in Wonderland befell his weary eyes. He wondered like the rabbit into the dark hole (he later found to be called a ‘Cinema’). He was a bit weirded out by this colourful reliving of the tale, but felt an affinity with the Mad Hatter, he particularly liked his purple top hat, so on leaving the sticky floored hall of moving images behind, he sat down and had a think.

“This world is so far from mine, what will I do to make a name for myself?”

Eureka moment struck, as a pretty, well-groomed lady swished past him. “I’ll be become a dressmaker! Lord knows I could dress this street urchin with better designs than what she appears in now.” So Mr. Dickens took the Mad Hatter as inspiration and pawned his pocket watch, purchased some fabric and forged together a collection of clothes. And the result was some beautifully crafted garments, which comprised of modern fabrics and patterns, mixed with old school elegance and charm. And this is what it looked like…

Have a look at Emily’s blog here!
Images from onenigerianboy.com

Unique Details

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Zeynep Tosun also presented her Autumn/Winter 2012 collection at the House of Evolution show. The collection is full of colour, but used in a understanded way. On first sight, you are taken into Zeynep’s imagination, on second you see some really wearable pieces that we have fallen for, very quickly. We spoke briefly with the designer backstage to ask her about her inspirations and creative processes…

What is the main inspiration for the collection?

I always love to use iconic object in my collections in an edgy way, this time the idea came from my childhood. I used to spend most of my time in my grandmother’s house where there were 2 giant marble elephant sculptures, that’s why I love Richard Avedon’s Dovina photo with elephants. It helped me to describe the feeling of the powerful woman who I [wanted to] create. Also I opened a my own shop in Istanbul four months ago and because of that we were designing the interior with my close architect friend. I [was] amazed by so many textures at that time and thought how inspiring it was creating a place. So I united these and came up with an idea of creating a living space for that powerful woman. Huge elephant marble sculptures instead of doors, giant patent leather couches with hand-made details, silver metal grounds, 10 meters height white ceiling with big 3-d flowers. Long, long curtains outside the house which are attached to the inside with giant macramés, with a touch of an east styled house – so basically mixing everything that I like. If had the chance, I would design a place and make the woman as powerful as I could.

What is it you are trying to say with this collection?

It is my fourth collection [so] we can say, I’m trying to build up my brand’s woman and let people see what is it like to wear my designs, specially it is a feeling that I want to create. I always start with creating image of the woman, not with clothes, and I always create what I want to wear, what I’ll be wearing. My style reflects a powerful woman, courageous, unique and eclectic also. With this collection I hope that I have started to make people feel that.

We love all the shapes and patterns you use, when designing your pieces, which comes first the pattern design or the shape of the garment?

Both of them is really important, first I start with the volumes and shapes, but the volumes are not enough – it’s the pattern, details that makes them unique and desirable.

Where can you see your collection being stocked?

Well, it’s a long list. I love lots of cool department and concept stores, but I studied in a french school and used to go to Paris a lot, since then Colette is like my temple, also I’m in love with Opening Ceremony.

Images by Christopher Dadey 

Silk x Leather + Colour Panels = Math Collective

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Math Collective’s second show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout had a similar ethos to past creations but mixed things up a bit with pieces of the sport luxe persuasion. I was intrigued to see the show, as designer Shahzad Mohayudin creates with a different sort girl in mind; one that wants luxury pieces that are wearable and easy to piece together for a ‘street’ style.

Featuring colours such as bright coral, navy and grey, Mohayudin manipulated the textures of silk and soft leather into shift dresses, and contemporary pieces. I can expect to see East London’s hip cool kids strutting down Shoreditch in these pieces, just as much as the style-loving missys from W1. How they accessorize them might be the tipping point.

Matt Collective was the last show that I attended this London Fashion Week, and I have to say although I am left feeling exhausted, ill and a bit delusional it was a fantastic experience. Watching the shows, just as much as the spectators, was just so much fun.

This is my favourite piece from the show! 

Although Math Collective was my last show, we still have more reviews in the making, so stay tuned.

Hidden Emotions

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Delada‘s Autumn/Winter 2012 creations walked down the catwalk at the House of Evolution show. We caught up with the designer Lada Komarova to find out more about the sophisticated, feminine collection.

The Autumn/Winter 2012 collection is inspired by Louise Bourgeois. In what way did she inspire your collection and how did you translate that into elegant clothing?

Louise Bourgeois has always fascinated me, not just her work, but her history of life and most of all her Hidden Emotions: I took these hidden emotions and translated them into looks or fabrics or unique design elements of the new collections: Time Capsules where Louise Bourgeois keeps her stored memories are reflected in sculpted fabric, a combination of rough textures and transparent fabrics reflecting her vulnerability and desires of protection.

Do you have a signature that you hope to carry through in each collection?

All my collections are inspired and referenced to art and artists, hence always have a common artistic trait, craftsmanship, and more structured forms. Also like an artist, all my collections showcase a combination of different materials and textures.

Did you always want to become a designer?

Not always. I have previously owned and operated an art gallery and am still very involved in an Art Collection Fund, but I have always been very keen on my own fashion style, so my love of art and fashion have combined to give me the creative energy for my collections.

What do you hope to achieve in your next collection?

The next collection will have a much more organic feel, transformation of hidden elements into visible design clues, and a structural balance feel to some pieces, based on the amazing work by Teresita Fernandez.


Images by Christopher Dadey 

Backstage @ House Of Evolution

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

On Sunday 19th of February I attended the Vauxhall Fashion Scout House Of Evolution Show and had a look backstage at all the madness and chaos. The beautiful models, that really put my height in perspective, were being fitted in the clothes. The hair and make up team were creating magic, while the designers and their crew were perfecting and putting everything together.

It was amazing to have been backstage and watched everything come together to create a great show!

Zeynep Tosun

Nadine Merabi

Delada

All images by ST.AG

Topshop & Newgen & Unique, Oh My!

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

One amazing thing about the rise in technology and the demand for fashion, is the live streaming of Fashion Week shows. Having missed a few due to a badly planed Valentine’s trip to Paris, I have been able to keep in the loop. One show, that I caught in my Parisian bathroom while Mr Allure slept in the other room, was Topshop Unique. Never before have I got so excited for a Topshop Unique collection. Their Autumn/Winter 2012 collection showcases a military uniform with edgy but oh so wearable pieces. I pretty much want the entire creation of designs.

Topshop has been working with Newgen for 10 years now. Which, unless you have been hiding somewhere over the last few weeks, you will know, and have seen their collaboration in terms of 10 T-shirts designed by past Newgen designers. I bought myself the Emma Cook design on Friday and when it arrived along came a Mary Katrantzou bag, Topshop Newgen draw-string bag as well as a collaboration newspaper. The newspaper is interesting as not only does it lay out the collection of T-shirts, but it also provides insight into Newgen by talking to the designers it has help shape.

I can’t wait to wear my new Emma Cook for Topshop tee with leather leggings and a boyfriend blazer.

What do you think of Topshop Unique’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection? Do you like the Newgen T-shirts?

Highland Chic

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Corrie Nielsen took inspiration from her heritage to create a collection that juxtaposed traditional Scottish and medieval English design with contemporary pieces and her signature structural form. The Fashion Fringe 2010 winner played with lines and shapes, putting on a theatrical show to boot.

With a mix of eveningwear and daywear, Vestiarium Scoticum, as the collection is named, featured draping oversized skirts and floor-length capes, as well as tartan kilts with lace trim and detailed blouses. Triangular shoulders and a high-neck conical neckerchief blouse also featured strong, but it is the way in which she used these traditional patterns and tartans, giving them a modern life, such as adding lace and netting, that made her collection as strong as it is.

One could say she is following in the footsteps of Alexander The Great (McQueen that is, not the Greek).

Detailing is important to Nielsen, it is evident from the collection when looked up close, and her experience with tailoring shines through. The models’ faces were covered in a tartan fascinator that gave the show a grand touch, and forced the meaning behind the collection in a strong fashion. We can expect great things from this Central Saint Martins graduate in seasons to come.

Images by Suzanne Plunkett, Mariella Agapiou & Sara Reverberi

Underwear Lover

Friday, February 17, 2012

Last night, three underwear and beachwear designers came together to put on a show at Cirque du Soir…

Designs by Playful Promises, Paolita and Lucile Lingerie.

Photos and review to come
 
Video by ST.AG

Ready, Set, Go…

Thursday, February 16, 2012

It’s the eve of London Fashion Week and the time to finally sleep for all those fashion loving New Yorkers (or time to board a plane here), and as well as staring at my wardrobe, magically trying to make designs appear, I have also been spending many a long hour, searching through all the shows to create my New York Fashion Week edit. Picking designer collections that not only inspire, but fit my style and also looking for pieces I really, really (really) want to own.

I love the playful splashes of colour, especially for Autumn, but they have me nodding along in agreement to the fact that they fit perfectly within the collection – no misplaced brights here! The simple silhouettes are elegant but mixing them with the see-through blouses, genius. Check out the platforms too. Me likey.

It’s as if Rebecca Minkoff designed these outfits by stealing a look into my mind; I’m a big fan of the mini paired with oversized tees and boyfriend blazers. You have to love the sparkle. I’ll be lusting after these when planning Autumn nights out.

Keeping the maxi trend alive, designer Scott Sternberg has created a western theme, evident by the catwalk backdrop. I really want the asymmetric jumper in the middle. The fur gilets work so well over the top of the full length skirts, a look I would never have paired together before.

This debut collection from Calla Haynes is oh so cute and adorable. Its perfect for those autumnal days walking in the park, watching the leaves fall from the trees. Or at least that’s what I would want to do in outfit number two.

The more grown-up collection of my choices, well I better start soon. Growing up, that is.  These elegant ensembles keep colour to a minimum, but there are elements of orange and red thrown in. What I love most is the sleeveless cable knit paired with a full-bodied maxi skirt and train – a quirky contrast, but it works.

There are other favourites such as Marc by Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, and I especially loved the 3.1 Phillip Lim beauty looks. Eyeliner is going to big a beauty must this Autumn, so I better master the perfect line now.

Tonight I’m off to a pre-London Fashion Week show, and from tomorrow it all gets a bit crazy, not to mention I’m boarding a 8am train to Paris on Saturday morning. But I can’t wait.

Ready, set, go…

Men’s Autumn/Winter 2012 So Far

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Nicole Farhi, although not usually my style, was amazing none the less. I have to say I do love many pieces in this collection. Look at the oversized knitwear and the sleep masks on top of the forehead – unusual, but I kinda like it.

I think sometimes it can be quite hard to look good in the winter, but Salvatore Ferragamo made dressing for the cold, hot. The blues greys and blacks work so well together. I would love all three of these outfits.

Mugler never fails in making me say “Oh My Gaga” but I am truly obsessed with this collection, especially as it was Nicola Formechetti (for those who do not know shame on you!)  that created it. Such a variety of silhouettes that carry the same stylish yet deranged essence all the way through.

After delivering a sick collection for H&M, Versace created this oh so fabulous collection with formal wear, denim and leather that you just want to have sex with. There were some pieces in this collection that I loved like the one on the right – amazing.

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