Designers | N.O.A

Entries Tagged as 'Designers'

Resort, Please!

Monday, June 18, 2012

As a master’s degree takes one full academic year, it means no summer holiday for me. Although I can’t complain (much), having not long arrived home from New York. So this influx of Resort 2013 collections is just not fair. Resort Collections means its summertime, and well, we only seem to be getting sporadic days of sun and very little warmth here in London. What’s even more frustrating is that fact that those days when I’m chained to my make-shift desk are the days the sun actually shows it face, and those spent out researching, at meetings etc are the days I need my massive umbrella. The song English Summer Rain by Placebo is taunting me in my mind, repeatedly.

But it seems designers are understanding though. A lot feature heavily on jackets and knitwear, although I’m certainly not complaining. These are my favourite collections so far.

Cynthia Rowley

An eclectic mix of shapes and garments feature in this collection, with heavy floral prints and a host of different materials. The second look here is my favourite – shiny metallic tee’s are back in business for another season according to Miss Rowley. For those of us that like to inject a bit of fun into our fashion, this is perfect.

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Marc by Marc Jacobs’s Resort 2013 Lookbook is too cool for school. Heavy layering, neon hair and mid-calf length socks make up this mix-and-match collection. With a nod to the 90s, Marc Jacobs even places his own face on tee’s in a very Kurt Cobain manner. Wash-out denim, oversized knits and military anoraks bring this grunge collection into the year 2013 with its choice of colour and styling.

Rag & Bone

This collection by designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville is made up of cable-knit sweaters, floral and sequin suiting, as well as lots of leather detailing. For the Rag & Bone girl, flying off to a distant, warm land isn’t on the cards and so both designer’s have shown us how to brave the cold and layer up.

Alexander Wang

This stunning collection uses a very natural palette and a lot of textures. Using tailoring in such a Wang way, each look is personified by elegance, but not to be confused with prim and proper. Leather, sheers, faux croc, and knits are juxtaposed in such a way that this minimalistic collection is anything but ordinary when it comes to details. I gotta get me some of those heels.

Images: Style.com

Suzanne Rae

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

When I was in New York I interviewed two designers for Summary Magazine. One was Suzanne Rae.

Exiting the subway station I entered into new territory. I had never ventured out as far as Bushwick before, but was welcomed by cute little rows of truly American houses, and that Brooklyn vibe I get from Greenpoint. We talked a little about the area in her home, which also doubles as her studio.

Decorated with sketches, fabric and creativity, I felt lucky to get to see not only the inside out of the beautiful garments, but how one designer lives. Especially in Brooklyn. Suzanne uses local artists as inspiration and sometimes collaborates with them on prints. That’s what I love about Brooklyn, it’s community spirit. It was evident two years ago in Williamsburg (which hasn’t changed a bit) and now Suzanne explains that Bushwich is becoming what the ‘Burg was 10 years ago. Creatives are moving to Bushwick because of cheap rents. I was only in the neighbourhood for a couple of hours, but next time I think I might do some more exploring.

Suzanne plays with the philosophy of feminism, and creates garments that women of the now would love to wear. Getting to see the creative hub of her design house only made me fall in love with her pieces even more.

Full interview to come on Summary Magazine’s blog.

Superga per House Of Holland

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

One collaboration I got all excited about when at the recent press days was House Of Holland’s remix of Superga pumps. Having an obsession with heels means that I own very few flats, those that I do are of the casual variety and flaforms are the perfect way for me to gain a little needed height, but to remain comfortable in shoes for a whole day – something I gave up on long ago.

This collaboration has taken the House of Holland prints such as polka dots & leopard in a pastel based palette drawn from Henry’s ‘Pastel Punks’ S/S12. He has been recorded saying the collection, which features Superga Classic cotu’s, high-tops and flatforms, is the ”perfect embodiment of Superga distinct style with a House of Holland twist.” I certainly can’t wait to get my feet in a pair and we don’t have to wait too long as the range is released into Office on May 31st, with the exception of my favourite, the polka dot flatforms that will be available exclusively to ASOS.com.

What do you think of the collaboration?

All Hail The Beanie

Friday, May 18, 2012

Madeleine Thompson is a designer who likes to work with cashmere. Her creations are elegant and minimal, but still have a quirky style that fit themselves nicely into most wardrobes, which is why they can be found at Net-A-Porter.com. I caught up with the designer to talk about beanies, inspiration and aspirations.

Spring/Summer Collection 2012

Did you always want to start your own brand? Have you always worked in fashion?

After working in the buying department and as a designer at two of Hong Kong’s most prestigious department stores, I launched the Madeleine Thompson label. Everything we do today is based on the same principles that started the business: work with friends and always listen to your consumer – we love receiving feedback and always take it on board.

Your collections centre around cashmere, what is it about the fabric that you love?

I love working with cashmere as it is so luxurious and looks beautiful on anyone - I spend a lot of time sourcing the best quality cashmere to ensure that I make the best garments available.

How would you describe the Madeleine Thompson woman?

I think she’s quite difficult to put into any one category! She’s the kind of woman who likes to look great even on off duty moments; from Sunday brunch to a walk along the beach and the Monday morning Starbucks coffee run.

Beanie hats make it into your collections each season and they play a role in shaping the brand. What role is that and are you a big fan of the beanie?

I am a huge fan of the beanie! The beanie is where it all began; in 2006, after struggling to find a beanie in stores with the right mix of slouch and elegance, I designed a cashmere one for myself. My friends began asking me to make one for them and before long the word had spread and my beanie was seen on Sienna Miller & Agyness Deyn.

When designing a new collection, which is more important for you – style or comfort?

Whilst my focus is on elegance and simplicity, being comfortable is something that I put huge emphasis on as a designer. My consumer is always very impressed with the quality and comfort of my designs. I like to experiment with different textures and of utmost importance of course, is the feel of the fabric against the skin.

Autumn/Winter Collection 2012

You are based in Hong Kong, would you say you are influenced by the city?

My childhood was divided between Hong Kong and London which has resulted in an eclectic set of influences for my knitwear. Hong Kong is a very innovative and exciting place to be at the moment so I would definitely agree that it influences my lifestyle and designs.

Where would you like to see the brand grow?

My brand is now recognized on an International level which is fantastic and I’ve had the chance to collaborate with some fantastic and diverse brands including Liberty, Penguin Books and Cowshed. From the first iconic Maddy Beanie, the collection now comprises of dresses, accessories, jumpers, cardigans and shawls – it’d be fantastic to continue this success on a national and international level.

What do you find alluring?

I am inspired by my travels around the world, old novels and my friends and family so I suppose you could say that I find all of those things alluring!

Lady Of The Dead

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Tramp in Disguise is the name of Sini Moilanen’s brand. Specializing in knitwear, the Finnish born fashion designer established the label in 2010, where she went on to show the first collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

For the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection Sini has taken inspiration from the Mexican Day of the Dead to create more signature prints. She used the colourful spirit of the festival and translating it into contemporary silhouettes, that are created in luxurious silk jersey, silk chiffon, and a knitted silk and alpaca blend. The palette is a beautiful mix of bright vivid tones that give the collection its edge.

I absolutely love the shirt dress. Tramp in Disguise can be found on Not Just A Label, at 123 Bethnal Green as well as the Then&Now online boutique.

Which piece do you love?

Photos from Tramp in Disguise’s Autumn/Winter 2012 Lookbook

Much BETA

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Beta Fashion set out to do things a little differently. They have created an international platform for designers to collaborate. Open to everyone and anyone with talent and a love for print, Beta then chooses the best to be put into production. With such an innovative vision for their brand and aesthetic, it’s great to see that their finished products are feminine, fun and oh so wearable.

This season they have not only released a line of print scarfs, stocked in Topshop, but they have also collaborated with e-retail giant ASOS. The collection sees each designer expressing their interpretation of ‘freedom’ through their eclectic silk prints. The designers in question are Samantha Edwards and Francesca Lahiri Langley. They final creations are very different as Samantha’s are more playful and Francesca’s are much more elegant.

I’m sure we are going to see many more great things from Beta!

Which scarf is your favourite? I love the Geometric style.

Agatha Hambi

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Agatha Hambi loves the darker side of fashion, and I don’t just mean her choice of palette. Edgy lines and simplistic values run deep in her collections. Having had celebrities such as Mother Monster herself wear pieces from her graduate collection, it’s safe to say we can expect great things from this young designer.

What is it that you love about fashion? What inspired you to get into design?

Fashion is ever-changing. It is something that evolves. It is used to be a prominent change from decade to decade, now it is from season to season. What is in one week, could be out the next. That is why I love timeless and classic pieces. I was always fascinated by the different eras of fashion and the culture that comes with them. I have always loved creating and from a young age, I had a fascination with style and how things were carefully put together, to create something beautiful. I used to love dressing up and being or portraying a character, playing the role that the clothes and the jewellery created.

Is there a certain element or aesthetic that you hope to bring to every collection?

My garments are a modern take on a classic look. They have more than one wear to them and can be interpreted differently to every individual. I design my garments in a way that allows the wearer to interpret and accessorize them in their own way.

How would you describe your creative process?

I start by focusing on an era or a mood to inspire me. I then draw on my own personal experiences or feelings that I have had, in order to create a story as a starting point. As my collection develops and the story evolves, I put a lot of emphasis on not only the garments themselves but the overall aesthetic and how they will transfer into a more visual outcome, through photography and video.

Lady Gaga has previously worn pieces from your Graduate Collection, what did it feel like to get such recognition early on?

It is something I really never expected after my graduate collection and is a huge honour. The whole point of being a designer, is wanting people to wear your clothes. So when Lady Gaga wore my dresses, it gave me even more confidence and drive, to do what I love to do.

What other designers inspire you?

Right now I am in love with the designs of Inbor Spector. Her dresses have a dream-like feel to them. I love the techniques that she uses, as well as the colour palettes. She pays attention to detail and her dresses remind me of a fairytale.

Where would you like to see your collections stocked?

I would love to see my collections stocked in Dover Street Market, as everything there has been carefully selected. It has tasteful collections from more well-known designers to newer, up coming designers and it would be amazing to be part of that. I would also like to sell to high-end boutiques both in London and internationally.

What clothes are you usually found in?

I will always be found wearing my evil eye ring, it’s a part of me and I rarely take it off. I like to feel comfortable and don’t like to over complicate my look. I like combining different eras within my outfits, which changes depending on my mood.

What do you have in store for Spring/Summer 2013?

I am still designing with my trademark use of dark colour palettes. The starting point of this collection, was looking at the ‘hip hop’ culture. I looked at breathable, comfortable materials and how the garments could make the wearer feel free. Hip hop is about the freedom of expression, being who you want to be, seeing what you want to see. I want this idea to be apparent within my garments.

What do you find alluring?

The mystery within a person. I get intrigued and captivated, wanting to know more. I am fascinated by the unknown; but that’s the fun of it, creating stories for the things that you would never know the answers to.

The Late Night Chameleon Cafe

Monday, April 16, 2012

A week ago I ventured out east to the high-end fashion emporium that is LN-CC. Hidden away on an unassuming road, down a little alley is the door to the London Store. I had discovered LN-CC a while ago, and had spent many an hour surfing through their website, lusting over the designers and their latest collections, many of which are exclusive to the retailer. So when we arranged a meeting at the appointment only boutique, I was extremely excited, to say the least.

Walking through the industrial doors you are taken to a tranquil arena; dim lights and incense sticks fill the senses, but it is the unique corridor, which has won them many design awards that catches your attention first. Acting as a hub, the corridor has connecting rooms, each one with a different mood, that is home to collections by well-known designers like Maison Martin Margiela, Givency and Yohji Yamamoto, but it is the less known, younger designers that I am most interested in.

The collections in each room changes often as they like to keep the shopping experience as fresh as possible. There were so many pieces that stood out for me, one being the Rick Owens Water Python Giacca Biker Jacket – the visible scales gives a distressed look. I also fell in love with Tim Coppens. He translates traditional tailoring into gorgeous sport luxe pieces. I especially loved the Hybrid Varsity Track Jacket, even if it is meant for men.

Rick Owens Water Python Giacca Biker Jacket

Tim Coppens Hybrid Varsity Track Jacket

Being able to get up close and personal with these designs you can see why the collections are so special. I learnt about Yang Li and the attention to detail in his minimalistic collection. Having been taken under the wing of Raf Simmons, Li not only knows how to create such intricate pieces, but has learnt how to produce a brand – there is something quite enigmatic about the beijing-born designer. Other collections that caught my attention were James Long and his beautiful embellishments and Junya Wantanabe.

As well as stocking some of the ‘coolest’ design talent, LN-CC also has a selective collection of art, culture and design books as well as a vintage music selection. And if that wasn’t enough, there is a small club in the back so that every now and then a select few can boogie underneath the disco ball.

Below is a selection from LN-CC’s 3 features for S/S12…

Isn’t the photography beautiful?

Soft Around The Edges

Thursday, April 5, 2012

The press days are upon us. They’re a great way of getting to see the clothes up close and personal, and also about finding new designers. So watch this space for my latest findings.

Gallery 4 is the debut collection by Louise Rhodes. Its chic sophistication and minimalistic lines are what first attracted me, but it was the little details that really had me going. Mixing her love of vintage clothing and menswear design, Louise creates an androgynous line, that is soft around the edges and centered around quaint tailoring. The Autumn/Winter 2012 collection is made up of silk printed blouses and skirts; a little bit more mature, in a wear-this-to-work sense, than her previous collections.

Gallery 4 Autumn/Winter 2012 Collection at Trace Publicity Press Day

The current season is full of asymmetric lines and short lengths, all in neutral hues and prints. Simple, but beautiful. You can purchase the collection in the Wolf & Badger Boutique and also online here. They currently have my favourite piece from the A/W11 collection, a Printed Maxi Chiffon Skirt for half price! My favourite looks from this season’s lookbook below…

Lilly Dress

Drew Leggings & Marla Chiffon Top

Helena Camisole, Maggie Shorts & Glenn Sleeveless Blazer

Shannyn Dress

Suvari Dress

Helena Camisole & Suzanne Skirt

Don’t you just love that each piece has a human name?

Ur Not In Fashion

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Eric Espinoza, a DJ turned designer is the man behind UNIF (Ur Not In Fashion), my latest obsession. Taking inspiration from 90s grunge and downtown LA, the brand is right on trend, although not intentionally. What caught my eye initially was the Hellbound Boots, a killer heel if there ever was one.

Hellbound Platforms, £151, NastyGal.com

They have some amazing pieces for Spring/Summer 2012 and I especially like the way they have shot the lookbook in such a dreamy fashion.

Check out those Corset Shorts in the second picture – stunning. I have pretty much placed the entire collection into my mental wish list. Layers, chiffon and hot pants oh my. Part of UNIF’s offerings can be purchased at ASOS.

Fashion Film for Holiday 2011 Collection

There is a certain care-free attitude to the brand. Designed for girls who don’t take fashion too seriously, but girls that have style. Cheque please!

Are you a fan?

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