Yesterday saw the end to the London Collection: Men showcase and provided many interesting collections. Below are my three favourites.
Matthew Miller not only provided us with a streamlined collection full of gothic shades, masculine tailoring and jumpers with Born To Fail in bold lettering, but we were also shown the female side of the equation. Crisp white shirts featured in every male look and long coats, in an array of materials and styles, were the staple of the women counter-parts. Miller himself has said that in 2013 the brand will have an “incredibly exciting launch with a multinational online retailer, a series of international exhibitions and the launch of a new digital concept.”
Bold silhouettes, floral patterns and materials played a huge role in Katie Eary’s AW13 collection, that also featured something for the girls yesterday. Her playful approach to design lends itself to a luxury streetwear aesthetic and her ideal client is someone who is “treading the monumentally versatile line between Vogue and Vice.”
Designer Patrick Grant created a collection for the dapper dan. Fond of his double-breasted suit jackets and chequered prints, the AW13 show boasted classic styling with little contemporary nuances, such as tailored trousers tucked into socks. In perhaps a nod to sixties chic, cloche hats were adorned by each model walking the catwalk. Mr. Allure certainly approved.
Here are my picks of the best catwalk shows from yesterday’s collections. Stay tuned for our views on today’s shows, tomorrow.
This collection is the epitome of neo-classic. It’s very minimalistic and chic, but with a vintage vibe. The clean lines and subtle patterns make it very smart but the garments still carry a street style. I loved the mix of tones and the splashes of colour on top of the neutral shaded clothes.
Sibling is designed by Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery from Yorkshire, Leicester and London respectively. The show blew me away today, I loved the mix of pink fur, leopard print, huge cable knitted scarfs and jumpers – a random mix but one that works none the less. The words Please Kill Me hung in the backdrop and also appeared in the opening look, embellishing a chunky knit. I would defiantly kill for it, in fact I’d kill for the entire collection.
The Richard James AW13 show really brought to light the beauty in masculinity. The collection was inspired by Park life. It’s classic and in keeping with clean-lines. Sporting one of my favourite colour pallets; autumnal coffee and caramel, with greens and blues also making an appearance.
With day one over and day two already started, we take a look at our favourite shows from yesterday’s collections.
In a masculine rainbow of muted shades, the Topman Design team presented an array cropped jackets, oversized peacoats and fur-trimmed parkas, matched with tailored trousers, military boots and thick knits. What upsets me most is that those Bromley boys, I just so happen to live in close proximity too, will manage to make these garments look in some way ‘chavvy’ when they hit the stores.
Always accustomed to how the Meadham Kirchhoff boys see the world, their second mens collection didn’t disappoint. Themed like fallen gentlemen, the models were surrounded by black bin bags and drapped in a varied collection of materials and shapes. Embellished sleeves and black oversized trenches played a big part, but it was the interesting choice of footwear, that left the models wearing sport socks with flip-flops, that stood out the most. We wonder if this will catch on.
The MAN show consisted of designers Astrid Andersen, Agi & Sam and Craig Green. Andersen kept to her hip-hop style, rooted in oversized streetwear, all in three colours of gold, purple and brown. The fur sleeved bomber jacket has to be a sure favourite. Green’s states that his collection was “based around the ideas of light, shadow, reflection and silhouette. Within this idea there has been a lot of development with surface/texture and fabrication.” Agi & Sam are two designers who’s collections always reach the top of my list. For AW13 they created pieces that wouldn’t look out-of-place on an English country gent. So much so, that a hound was walked down the catwalk as an accessory. Contrast sleeves featured high, and of course their famous prints weren’t forgotten.
YOUNG THREAD is a new online retailer that holds an exclusive collection of men’s fashion and accessories from many of the world’s most exciting independent brands.
The brands they hold are all small or unknown, giving this online boutique an edge compared to many of the other online retailers for men. The thing I noticed when checking out the site is that the buyers have done a great job in making sure each item fits with the overall style. There isn’t an item on the site that clashes with any other.
Their pieces toy with that British Boy look, but also mix in some Scandinavian and Australian influences. The site itself is filled with many timeless products that have had a contemporary spin. They will help you achieve an effortlessness, which I feel works best for some men (best to give the illusion you don’t try hard, or not at all).
We act as a platform for young menswear brands, helping to support & introduce them into the consumer market. Our S/S12 collection showcases talent from across the globe, with brands from Paris, Sweden, Columbia, New York, Australia & beyond.
Check out some of my favourite pieces from the site below…
1. Contego The Bellow Tourtoise Sunglasses, £85 2. Hasso Vega Black Rucksack, £119 3. Mercy and Wild Sexy Dyslexics T-Shirt, £35 4. Serge Denimes Smoking Tee, £55 5. Bobbies L’Elegant/Sky Blue Shoes, £100 6. FB Collection Copacabana/Pink Swim Shorts, £125 7. Happy Socks White Polka Dot Socks, £8
“The skin produces scars, when it is not capable of healing what it once was. The scar is a creation of a different material, that we can define as the fabric of an emergency.”
Directed by LUCA FINOTTI
Starring SIMONE NOBILI
Music BURIAL-IN McDONALDS
Styling PAOLO ZAGOREO
Editing LF studio
Second Camera FEDERICO FORLANI
Assistant Director MARCO CREMA
Martine Rose has teamed up with TEST to produce this stunning fashion film, directed by Paul Gore, which premiered at The Sanderson Hotel. He emphasises body movement to illustrate key pieces from the collection. It’s shorts like this that make you remember what fashion film is for. The music is an interesting and original score by Lorn. I would have a look if I were you.
At this moment, I can’t help but feel mens fashion is going through an evolution of some sort. It is becoming a lot bolder and I think designers are having a lot more fun with it. The London Collections for Men are out and there are some sick creations; very cool trends emerging for Spring/Summer 2013.
Here are the top 4 collections that I’m seriously digging right now.
An interesting collection in my mind, with pattern printed knitwear and sleeveless tailored shirts. He steered away from the trend of the high shorts and went long, with large baggy shorts. The second look is my favourite.
I thought this collection was very clean-cut with a casual style. It was full of cool blues, neutral greys and white colours. I love the last look but would definitely not say no to the jacket in the middle.
Suck a sick collection. The mix of bright colours, distressed knitwear and asian influenced prints as well as the styling of the lookbook is what makes this one of my favourites. It has the bohemian aesthetic that I just adore. Amazing.
Definitely an exciting presentation as it was split up by designers Shaun Sampson, Astrid Anderson and Agi & Sam. Shaun Sampson’s collection stood out the most here. I loved how it had this chic 90s punk feel to it – which is the look I myself have been going through at the moment – baggy t-shirts and shorts topped off with beanies. Astrid Anderson’s futuristic sportswear had amazing colours of deep maroon and dark turquoise. It worked very well with the material, not a collection I am drawn to personally, but enticed, yes. Agi & Sam a very stylish and sleek collection with a mix of soft colours and interesting prints.
Which is your favourite?
I love vintage clothing and I’m obsessed with designer clothes so I think it’s understandable why I’m loving these vintage jackets.
1. Kansai Yamamoto Vintage Zip Jacket, £479, Farfetch 2. JC De Castlebajac Checked Jacket, £389, Asos Fashion Finder 3. Dsquared Vintage Leather Jacket, £1,110, Circle 4. Jean Paul Gaultier Vintage Cage Jacket, £399, Farfetch
Which is your favourite?
Nothing excites me more than buying new shoes, and as much as I love brogues and boots etc, a pair of sick sneakers will always do me. Unfortunately being a student makes it pretty hard to satisfy my addiction, but it never hurts to have a look. Here are some shoes that caught my eye.
1. Adidas Originals by Jeremy Scott Hi-Top Sneakers, £133 at Farfetch 2. Rick Owens Leather Bicolour High Sneakers, £598, at Luisaviaroma 3. Raf Simmons Leather High-Top Sneakers, £343, at Autograph 4. Gienchi Studded Hi-Top Sneakers, £219, at Asos Fashion Finder
Which do you prefer?
Out of all the trends that were spotted during london fashion week Spring/Summer 2012, hats was the one that caught my eye. A hat represents confidence and can create a bold statement to your outfit.
Burberry Prosum showcased a wooly hat in their Spring/Summer 2012 collection, so don’t just assume it can’t be done. Here are some of this season’s most wanted…
1. Deryck Todd Shanghai Surprise Hat, £234, Farfetch.com 2. Rag & Bone Straw Trilby Hat, £130, MrPorter.com 3. Brixton Henshaw Cap, £25, Asos.com 4. Brixton Hats Fiddler Nautical Cap, £35, Asos.com 5. Obey Great One Snap Back Cap, £35, Selfridges.com 6. Ca4la Beanie Hat, £94, Farfetch.com
Are you at hat person? Which would you wear?